Travels with Jackie and Ben
The cluster of 14 islands making up the Galapagos are the result of ancient, and active, volcanoes thrusting up from the ocean floor. They vary dramatically from lush rainforest to austere black lava landscapes. Darwin’s observations of radical evolution in the sequestered islands draws scientists and travelers to study and exclaim in wonder. 
We join the Nemo 3, a catamaran with a great crew, an incredibly knowledgeable naturalist, and 9 other amiable passengers. They have been together a few days, but they make us very welcome. We have all our meals out on the deck and you can see the trusty zodiac that will deliver us to our snorkling and hiking adventures.
Ben and I are assigned a roomy cabin and Garrett has one to himself. It’s comfy, but we will find that motor noise and a couple of bucking nights on the waves will make us glad Garrett brought us Dramamine to lull us to sleep.
Garrett makes friends with everyone on board, but he really connects with Lenny, our guide. They are both the most adventurous divers and Garrett is interested in everything Lenny has to teach us. I’m not going to attempt to put all our experiences in order, just tempt you with some pictures :)
On our way to tour the Darwin Center, we are warned to stay clear of the poison apple trees. They look harmless, but even the leaves are toxic. I guess Galapagos really is like Eden!
We are going to be introduced to so many unique creatures. This giant tortoise could well live to be 150 years old.The bright red crabs start out life tiny and black. As they turn red, they sprinkle the black lava cliffs and rocks like moveable poinsettias.
They skitter around everywhere.
The sea lions laze and loll about. They can be incredibly playful with us underwater. Garrett especially connects with two young ones that keep teasing him. He’s the only one among us who scorns a full wetsuit in favor of swimming in a swim suit, making it easier to dive for closer shots with his go pro camera.
Garrett gets many shots and videos we all enjoy later on the boat. This diving penguin moved past us in a flash.
Tide pool exploration leads us to sun star fish. They’re a deep black color.
On Fernandina Island the sand itself seemed like a whole sea in miniature.We’re surprised to find these 2 unprotected Oyster Catcher eggs, but Lenny tells us it’s normal and there are few predators.
Next we meet a couple of the adults browsing about the sand. 
On Isabella Island we are introduced to the juxtaposition of harsh and lush.
As our zodiac approaches, we can see a volcanic vent spewing red lava in the distance.
Lenny leads us to this lush lagoon where marsh plants create a shelter for this trio of flamingos. They blew in from the Caribbean on a storm. They are weak flyers, so they are trapped. Many creatures came to the Galapagos under such conditions. They adapt and evolve.
Here’s an incredible example - marine iguanas. They are the only iguanas that live in the ocean. They are a steely eyed bunch of vegans. One of their defenses is absolute stillness. They blend in the lava in intimidating masses, but they aren’t aggressive. However, they do snort saltwater if you get too close.
We are all charmed by the relaxed, sunning sealions.
This little pup squalls for mama, who tries unsuccessfully to lure him into the water. 
It’s pup season! This mom is nursing her baby and warns off a nearby older pup, who wants to edge in.
Back on board, our 3 British fashionistas are always ready for happy hour, and our group grows close as we share stories.
Nemo 3 is on the left, so you can see how boats vary. 100 passengers is the limit in Galápagos, but we enjoy our small number. We do have one really rough night where I dream the captain has fallen asleep at the wheel. In the morning, everyone shares stories of their night, and some didn’t sleep a wink. It’s good to be low in the water on a catamaran, but we definitely feel the waves bucking us about.
Boobies and finches have to be the most famous birds of Galapagos. We get to see downy white Boobie chicks nesting with their parents.
The captivating finches flit and flirt all around us. Darwin’s studies of the finches and their amazing evolution into myriad subspecies have been studied intently. Their populations explode and dwindle depending on conditions. We just find them delightful.
Snorkeling twice a day gives Garrett plenty of photo opportunities, and in this location the water was clear. Often the water was brimming with plankton which is terrific for feeding whales and fish, but makes the water murky.
Sea turtles were chill about us humans swimming beside them. Not happy were a pair of courting cormorants that I got too close too. One of them bit me on the leg as I floated by. Ouch! Then a few minutes later, one swam over and bit my arm!
On our final snorkling stop, Lenny and Garrett dived deep and through this sea tunnel. I was waiting nervously for Garrett to pop back up to the surface after they disappeared from view :)
Our tour group really jelled. We all shared a “once in a lifetime” adventure. We wouldn’t have gone to Galapagos if it hadn’t been so important to Garrett, so we’re grateful for his enthusiasm and comraderie :)
Isinlivi is a tiny Pueblo high in the Andes mountains. Loads of trekkers go there because it’s on a 3 day hiking route to Lago Quilotoa, a sapphire volcanic lake. Before we come to Ecuador, I envision hiking this route. But reality sets in that we’re not up for it. Nonetheless, we go to Isinlivi to take short hikes, and little do we know what an adventure it will be. As we get off the bus, a band is playing. Good sign!
We follow a young couple to our hostel, Llullullama (pronounced jshu-jshu-jshama), which is popular for good reason. First we meet Balu, the wandering Saint Bernard. A sign inside asks trekkers not to let him join them. Too often they have to retrieve him from other villages.
The interior is so friendly and homey. We are more than double the age of anyone else working or visiting Llullullama.
This lounge area, the dining room and especially our private cabana are really comfy. We decide to stay 3 nights. There’s a free morning yoga class, after all!
Tito, the resident llama is quite an effective lawn mower. At dinner we meet the nicest young couples. To our surprise, a sweet and interesting Finnish couple we met in Baños comes in a little late, having hiked for 4 hours from Sigos, which was a long steep bus trip for us. She is a little bedraggled from the hike and altitude.
In the morning, after yoga and a friendly breakfast, we set off for a hike.
This feller wants us to know who’s in charge. After an hour, I’ve had enough. The altitude and steep climbs are tough.
We wander around town and things are happening. First we see a palo encebado (greased pole) being raised by a small army of men. I’ve read about this in my Spanish class! There’s a lot of heaving and hoing to get the huge thing up and then lots of earth tamping, because it is not secured into any foundation but the dirt. The “tree top” is strung with goodies - buckets, toys, blankets, booze and more.
Meanwhile, old ladies are tamping corn stalks and tree branches in each of the corners of the fenced-in rodeo corral, then stringing the stalks with fruits and food items. It’s quite mysterious.
A lady asks me to take a selfie with her.
We meet an Italian gentleman who tries to fill me in with his limited English. He is visiting his daughter who is part of a group of young Italian Catholic women volunteering in Isinlivi. They have made no progress in setting up a work program for village women, because the husbands object and machismo is a solid fact of rural life in Ecuador.
He explains that this weekend is a fiesta for the patron saint of Isinlivi, John the Baptist (Juan Bautista). He introduces us to the really nice priest who invites us to see the church.
There’s a master woodworker in Isinlivi and his work graces the church as well as our hostel. Unfortunately the workshop is closed this weekend.
The next morning I am chatting with the hostel manager and we hear music outside the door. We rush out just in time to see the parade coming.
These lovely senioritas follow the young men in gorgeous costumes. It’s a big combo of ancient Incan traditions co-opted into a Catholic event.
Next come the church stewards and on the left, a few traditional masked tricksters who use rakes to tease and trip onlookers.
After them are caballeros with live chickens strung upside down on a pole.
The covered market pavilion is bustling with food vendors, tiny carnival rides for kids, ladies knitting and selling and repetitive band music. I buy the black and tan basketon the floor in front of the sign for $5.
This church lady approaches Ben with a smile, takes him firmly by the arm and escorts him across the pavilion to line up to pay a $1 ransom from her “capture” and get his hand stamped. We only learn the next day that the hand stamp entitled him to free food from one of the food tables.
The sun, “planted” crops, and other symbols seem like harvest icons.
Moonshine is being poured for the caballeros, and we’ll see plenty of inebriation as the day wears on.
At some signal not heard by us, there’s almost a melee as people rush to the corral corners and good naturedly fight for the fruits that have been tied to the corn stalks since yesterday. It’s like the rush for scattered piñata candy :)
This señora scored a precious pineapple and hugged it close.
Another busy spot is beside the church where the Italians have set up a prize raffle. Ben gets in the long to pay his dollar and draw a number.
Will his number get the soccer ball? The cooking pot?
The boy in front of him looks hopefully at the number he has drawn.
He wins a pair of stiletto red booties!
Ben wins a kilo of rice.
Now it’s time to watch the young teen boys try to climb the palo. The first one strips off all the eucalyptus bark as he climbs. The higher he gets the more nervous I am. The pole is only in dirt! It’s 30 feet up!
He’s determined and parents are shouting for what prizes he should claim.
Soon there are 3 boys on the palo, getting a little more reckless about tossing down the prizes, a few of which break on landing. Some mothers are quite pleased by what their chicos have tossed to them. Pride in their valor too.
Next, a bullfight! The poor toros have been jabbed repeatedly to enrage them before they’re released. The men and boys strut out with capes and old blankets to play matador.
Luckily, no hombres or toros are injured, but there’s just enough close calls to keep the crowd happy.
Back at Llullullama, Balu is keeping watch. We have had the most interesting day! We’ve been made welcome and feel so lucky to be here for the fiesta.
Next day, we will make it, by bus, to Lago Quilotoa. It really is a stunning destination, no doubt more so if you hike 3 days to get there. But we are certain our experience in Isinlivi will leave more lasting memories!
