The cluster of 14 islands making up the Galapagos are the result of ancient, and active, volcanoes thrusting up from the ocean floor. They vary dramatically from lush rainforest to austere black lava landscapes. Darwin’s observations of radical evolution in the sequestered islands draws scientists and travelers to study and exclaim in wonder.
We join the Nemo 3, a catamaran with a great crew, an incredibly knowledgeable naturalist, and 9 other amiable passengers. They have been together a few days, but they make us very welcome. We have all our meals out on the deck and you can see the trusty zodiac that will deliver us to our snorkling and hiking adventures.
Ben and I are assigned a roomy cabin and Garrett has one to himself. It’s comfy, but we will find that motor noise and a couple of bucking nights on the waves will make us glad Garrett brought us Dramamine to lull us to sleep.
Garrett makes friends with everyone on board, but he really connects with Lenny, our guide. They are both the most adventurous divers and Garrett is interested in everything Lenny has to teach us. I’m not going to attempt to put all our experiences in order, just tempt you with some pictures :)
On our way to tour the Darwin Center, we are warned to stay clear of the poison apple trees. They look harmless, but even the leaves are toxic. I guess Galapagos really is like Eden!
We are going to be introduced to so many unique creatures. This giant tortoise could well live to be 150 years old.
The bright red crabs start out life tiny and black. As they turn red, they sprinkle the black lava cliffs and rocks like moveable poinsettias.
They skitter around everywhere.
They skitter around everywhere.
The sea lions laze and loll about. They can be incredibly playful with us underwater. Garrett especially connects with two young ones that keep teasing him. He’s the only one among us who scorns a full wetsuit in favor of swimming in a swim suit, making it easier to dive for closer shots with his go pro camera.
Garrett gets many shots and videos we all enjoy later on the boat. This diving penguin moved past us in a flash.
Tide pool exploration leads us to sun star fish. They’re a deep black color.
On Fernandina Island the sand itself seemed like a whole sea in miniature.
We’re surprised to find these 2 unprotected Oyster Catcher eggs, but Lenny tells us it’s normal and there are few predators.
Next we meet a couple of the adults browsing about the sand.
Next we meet a couple of the adults browsing about the sand.
On Isabella Island we are introduced to the juxtaposition of harsh and lush.
As our zodiac approaches, we can see a volcanic vent spewing red lava in the distance.
Lenny leads us to this lush lagoon where marsh plants create a shelter for this trio of flamingos. They blew in from the Caribbean on a storm. They are weak flyers, so they are trapped. Many creatures came to the Galapagos under such conditions. They adapt and evolve.
Here’s an incredible example - marine iguanas. They are the only iguanas that live in the ocean. They are a steely eyed bunch of vegans. One of their defenses is absolute stillness. They blend in the lava in intimidating masses, but they aren’t aggressive. However, they do snort saltwater if you get too close.
We are all charmed by the relaxed, sunning sealions.
This little pup squalls for mama, who tries unsuccessfully to lure him into the water.
It’s pup season! This mom is nursing her baby and warns off a nearby older pup, who wants to edge in.
Back on board, our 3 British fashionistas are always ready for happy hour, and our group grows close as we share stories.
Nemo 3 is on the left, so you can see how boats vary. 100 passengers is the limit in Galápagos, but we enjoy our small number. We do have one really rough night where I dream the captain has fallen asleep at the wheel. In the morning, everyone shares stories of their night, and some didn’t sleep a wink. It’s good to be low in the water on a catamaran, but we definitely feel the waves bucking us about.
Boobies and finches have to be the most famous birds of Galapagos. We get to see downy white Boobie chicks nesting with their parents.
The captivating finches flit and flirt all around us. Darwin’s studies of the finches and their amazing evolution into myriad subspecies have been studied intently. Their populations explode and dwindle depending on conditions. We just find them delightful.
Snorkeling twice a day gives Garrett plenty of photo opportunities, and in this location the water was clear. Often the water was brimming with plankton which is terrific for feeding whales and fish, but makes the water murky.
Sea turtles were chill about us humans swimming beside them. Not happy were a pair of courting cormorants that I got too close too. One of them bit me on the leg as I floated by. Ouch! Then a few minutes later, one swam over and bit my arm!
On our final snorkling stop, Lenny and Garrett dived deep and through this sea tunnel. I was waiting nervously for Garrett to pop back up to the surface after they disappeared from view :)
Our tour group really jelled. We all shared a “once in a lifetime” adventure. We wouldn’t have gone to Galapagos if it hadn’t been so important to Garrett, so we’re grateful for his enthusiasm and comraderie :)
