Travels with Jackie and Ben

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Back in the Saddle, Chased by the Feds



We got our mojo back.

Ben wanted to hike around the Savannah Wildlife Refuge, a huge federal preserve just between us and Savannah.  I mentioned that the federal government shut down might make that impossible, but Ben figured miles of trails surely couldn't all be closed.  We arrived midmorning and parked our car (only one in the parking pullout) and approached the gate, which was posted with this polite sign.  But the trail brochures were out, and there was nothing blocking the hiking trail entrance.  We reasoned that the Park Service Rangers are furloughed anyway, so off we went.
I photographed some wildflowers and butterflies and we kept an eye out for alligators.  About 30 minutes into our hike we hear a vehicle bearing down on us.

Busted.

A stern Ranger got out of his vehicle and asked if we had noticed the sign and read it.  All went downhill from there.  Luckily, he let us off with a little lecture and then we had a chat about relatives who work for the Park Service.

Time for Plan B.  
Since we were halfway to Savannah anyway, we decided to head into town and get some lunch.  A foodie guidebook had recommended the Starlight District.  20 minutes later we were parked outside Back in the Day Bakery.  Nothing more energizing that a really cute bakery with decadent goods.  We split something gooey with chocolate. 
The Starlight District reminded us of the slightly seedy (in a good way) area of Sacramento where we lived when we first met.  We walked the streets for a while, admiring the old Victorian houses (some really impressive as above, some boarded up) and then came upon the Starlight Cafe. 
Now we were really glad we revisited Savannah!  I know I earlier said we liked Charleston more, but Savannah is moving up the charts!

A nice lunch in their back garden upped our enthusiasm even more.
We headed down Bull Street and passed through Forsythe Park, which has a beautiful fountain often featured in Savannah tour books.
This whole neighborhood has been taken over by SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design).  They seem to own every other historic building and their students roam the streets.  SCAD is responsible for many of the quirky, cool cafes and shops in the hood.  We stopped in at the SCAD gift store, where all their products are made by students, alumni or staff.

We continued on and stopped to once again admire St. John's Episcopal Church and the Green Meldrim House next door (circa 1953).  This incredible mansion was requisitioned by General Sherman at the end of the Civil War for himself and his officers. In 1864 it was from this house he telegraphed President Lincoln offering "as a Christmas present, the City of Savannah..."

That history lured us in.
 We then met one of the nicest docents ever, Ann.  Ann lives across the street (so in a historic home of her own) and she got married (second time) at age 69 at St. Johns.  Her wedding reception was in the this very Green Meldrim House (which is absolutely beautiful).  We had a lot of fun chatting with Ann - turns out one of her oldest friends lives in Morro Bay. 
 She urged us to join the upstairs tour and so we caught half of the history of the house.  Ben noticed that the guest book had been signed by Colin and Mrs. Powell and Margaret Thatcher.
By now it was late afternoon and time for us to skedaddle out of Savannah and get to Bluffton, where we had reserved a kayak for an evening cruise in the bay.  We arrived in Bluffton in time for their charming Farmer's Market.  We bought some pecans and peaches, and then got pulled BBQ pork sandwiches piled with cole slaw.  A picnic bench in the shade, live music, and some nice folks from Ohio to visit with - we were totally on top of our game!
Our kayak was waiting for us, so we pushed away from the picnic table and headed to the small wharf. The tide was going out and the sun was still beating down, so it was more work than we imagined, but we still got to glide in the marsh grasses and be jolted by fish leaping out the the water.  Egrets flew in and out.
 The sun slowly set giving us some great photo opportunities.

All is all, a great day in Savannah and environs.  The Parkers still have travel mojo!



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