Bach in the GDR

Cheerful Frieder shows us his brave side, standing proudly on the scooter made by Aunt Theresa.  He worries not at all (like me) about the slippery wood floors in his family's light-filled, early Art Deco flat. 

Ben feeds Frieder his breakfast before his Papa takes him to his kinder program.  Frieder likes me to play peek-a-boo with him and does allow me to tote him around, but he clearly prefers Ben.

Ruth has mornings free so she takes us around the corner to rent bikes through the cool Next Bike company (founded in Leipzig) - bikes are widely available in most public places and rentable by cell phone.  She leads us  through tree-canopied green parks, past the heavily guarded US embassy and to 

Spinnerei, a former cotton mill founded in 1884.

 The mill grew into an entire community of 4000 workers and included housing and kindergartens for the mostly female workers' children.  Abandoned after reunification, the sprawling brick buildings now house artist studios.  After lunch Ruth departs for works so Ben and I have to find our own way.

It seems we check our Google Maps app every few blocks, but eventually we make it downtown where we park the bikes and visit St. Thomas Church, home of Johann Sebastian Bach. 

Bach was Music Director for 26 years until his death in 1750.  

Farmers Market is in full swing, filling the large square in front of The Rathaus (City Hall).  We buy assorted berries, the sweetest blueberries ever.  Meanwhile, Marcel is home preparing an amazing Rouladen for us.  I play with Freider and he feeds himself blueberries, making it clear he can do it himself, "danke schoen".

We arrive back at the flat in time for Ben to assist a little, but mainly to observe Marcel layer mustard, onion, diced pickle and thin lardy bacon on thinly pounded beef and then roll it into neat bundles.  He will brown the rolled beef, then braise it in a vegetable-rich beefy both.  It will be served with huge potato dumplings stuffed with bread cubes sautéed in butter.  A great red wine will accompany the meal.  Is there any doubt Ben and I have landed in heaven?