Vamos!

We reach the half way point in our 3 month stay in Ecuador and we decide to branch out, a little more Spanish under our belts, to see some of the places we have heard about.  My teacher emphatically tells me we should go to “la selva,” the jungle.  Her favorite place is Puyo.  Edwin, our occasional driver, seconds that motion.  My only self imposed limitation is no 8 hour bus rides.

I wish I could share photos of the jaw-dropping views along the way to Sucúa, our first stop.  There was no way to get them through the rain spattered bus window and I could barely look down without getting queasy as we went round and round the mountain roads.  Water everywhere - gushing, roiling red water pouring down the mountains, our bus dodging rockfalls and slides.  At one point the driver came to a stop and we figured a landslide had finally blocked the road completely.  He then backed us down the mountain about a 100 yards and took an inky black tunnel that was at least a third of a mile long.  I prayed no one would be coming through it in the other direction because it was only wide enough for us. 

We get dropped off by the side of the road just outside Sucúa and the bus assistant points towards el centro.  With our day packs stuffed tight with our belongings for the week, we head to the sound of loudspeakers.

The plaza is closed to cars because a 5K community run is in progress.  Families fill some grandstands and it’s time to cheer all the runners. Next up is the 100 meter run for the abuelos (grandparents).

It takes a while to get them lined up properly.  A couple of abuelas keep stepping over the starting line.  Then they’re off!  A second contingent strolls along behind just setting a sedate pace.  Their “meet” is followed by little kids in various age groups, all getting lots of cheers and support.

After their meets (and many were running hard!) some kids splash into the plaza fountain to cool off.  We’ve never seen kids actually get into a fountain in Ecuador, though we’ve seen many lean over the edge to touch the water with their hands, but it has seemed there’s a rule against climbing in.  Not today, but only for about 10 minutes.  Then they are all shooed out of the water and decorum is restored.

We spend an uneventful night in Sucúa except our sleep is punctuated by a hundred roosters crowing, who then wake up a bunch of barking dogs.  We get a taxi to the bus terminal and buy a $2 breakfast, which we are surprised to learn includes baloney and a white cheese on an odd tasting roll.  With only minutes left to board our bus for Puyo, I gulp down the cafe con leche (a cup of hot milk into which I pour some coffee concentrate) and 2 scrambled eggs and hide the fact I’m going to toss the baloney sandwich.

Later on the bus, a lady jumps on at a stop to sell some freshly fried empanadas.  Ben and I look at each other and decide to take the plunge for food of unknown origins.  At least it’s hot :) And actually kind of tasty, with a typical filling of chicken and veggies.

Taking pictures from the bus is no bueno, but at least this one shows one of the mighty rivers that crisscross the rainforest, or jungle, or la selva.

All the way to Puyo the bus stops for anyone along the way waiting for a ride. As we get closer to Puyo, he pauses for an extra minute to chat with these friends building a house by the road.

From the road, the rainforest is astounding for its lushness, dripping water and incredible diversity.  It is also alarming because large areas have been deforested with only unhealthy trees left behind like forlorn sentries.  Farming, development, and harvesting are just a fact.  Not unlike at home, however this biodiversity is unique and under threat.

But we are about to enter another world in the rainforest.  A special eco-hotel with its own waterfalls and dense forestation.  And Ben and I will be it’s only guests for 3 magical nights.