Ghana Odyssey Day 11

This morning, after Reggie negotiated for a taxi driver for the day ($35 for 7 hours of driving and waiting), we head up to Kakumi National Park for the amazing canopy walk. 

There are only 4 canopy walks in the world, per our guide, Sister Doris (remember, they are not nuns, it is just a term of respect or affection).  Our canopy walk comprised of 7 long, narrow swinging bridges that linked from high tree to high tree.  Sister Doris told  us that we were 750 feet over the rainforest floor.  The particular among you can fact check on Wikipedia. I am just sayin'...

We become pals with Michael and Simon, two very tall Chinese guys.  Reggie tells them they were tall for Chinese, but they insist there are lots of tall people in China.  They are in Ghana working on solar.  We get on the topic of politics and Michael expresses satisfaction with the one party system in China.  He is surprised that I think China suppresses media and dissent, though he agrees they stifle the Internet and that he has enjoyed reading free press on the Internet while in Ghana.  Guess we have different ideas about free press!  Anyway, he says China is changing.  

Our patient taxi driver, Majeed, was waiting to take us next to Elmina Castle, one of the two infamous slave castles on the Cape Coast.  Elmina castle was built by the Portuguese in 1400 something for gold and spice trade.  The Dutch waged war on the Portuguese here in 1600 something and won.  The enterprising Dutch introduced the slave trade in a diversification strategy and were aided by African tribal kings who were glad to make extra cash and dump some enemies off the continent.  

This was a stunningly cruel institution, involving lots of rape, torture, in-humane conditions and murder.  The Dutch governor liked to select pretty women for his own horny pleasure and those that refused were severely punished.  Ironically, if the women got pregnant, they released them and welcomed the offspring back to the castle for education.  Do you hear my shudder?

  I was the only white person on the castle tour.  Our other tour members were all black Americans, one family from Sacramento.  They have a son who attended Cal-poly for a year.  Small world when you are in a dungeon.  Reggie wanted to go on to the Cape Castle, which is even larger. I said, "no, one slave castle is enough for me for a lifetime."

We took a little driving tour through the town of Cape Coast, and as usual this involved harrowing close calls with pedestrians and other taxis.  The towns here are just mini-versions of Accra, with congestion, crowding, litter and poverty.  There are lots of interesting things to see such as the women, young and old, wearing so many diverse and colorful dresses.  I love how you see a woman walking towards you with two little feet sticking out along each side of her waist.  As she passes by you see the baby tightly bundled against her back (can he even breathe?) in the fabric wrap she has expertly wrapped around herself.

Back at our University hostel (catering to visiting professors and students, seemingly all American or Austrailian) I confirm plans to take a batiking workshop tomorrow from Global Mamas and I book a room at a beach resort.  Reggie is very reluctantly leaving me tomorrow am, but he thinks his Mom is going to be very unhappy about it.  I look at it as a succession of taxi or bus rides which I know I can manage.  Wait for tommow's report to see how I make out!

Jackie on the loose